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El par tornillo-corona no debe cambiarse solo cuando ya ha fallado. Esperar a dientes rotos o al agarrotamiento significa que el equipo ya está parado. Evaluar el desgaste con antelación y programar un reemplazo planificado reduce las paradas imprevistas. Este artículo explica cómo juzgarlo.
1. Inspeccionar los flancos
Abrir e inspeccionar los flancos de la corona:
– Flancos lisos y mancha de contacto uniforme: normal.
– Desgaste leve pero área de contacto aún suficiente: puede seguir en servicio.
– Desgaste grave, espesor de diente claramente reducido o pits de desconchado: hay que sustituir.
– Dientes rotos: sustituir de inmediato; no seguir usando.
2. Medir la holgura
Medir la holgura de engrane con un comparador. En un reductor nuevo suele ser 0,03–0,08 mm. Si llega a 2–3 veces el valor original y el juego de retorno es evidente, toca cambiar.
Con tornillo de doble avance, ajustar primero la holgura; sustituir solo cuando el ajuste al límite sigue siendo insuficiente.
3. Escuchar el ruido
El funcionamiento normal es estable y continuo. Atender a:
– Golpes periódicos: desgaste de flancos o dientes rotos.
– Rozamiento agudo: lubricación insuficiente.
– Vibración irregular: cojinete dañado o montaje flojo.
4. Medir la temperatura
La carcasa de un reductor en buen estado no debe superar unos 60–70°C. Un aumento claro, caliente al tacto, indica desgaste acelerado o mala lubricación.
5. Planificar con antelación
Registrar el mantenimiento por horas de marcha e inspeccionar flancos y holgura aproximadamente cada seis meses. Ante tendencia de desgaste, pedir recambios a tiempo — no apresurarse tras la avería.
Dezhou Xinmi Machinery ofrece relevamiento, réplica y fabricación a medida de pares tornillo-corona. Las piezas gastadas pueden rehacerse con los parámetros originales.
